Every
city has a style identity. London is known to have many – sartorial
eclecticism is an integral part of its heritage – but one of the
strongest menswear aesthetics of recent years is an offbeat kind of cool
provided by a cluster of homegrown designers specialising in casual
clothes with an innovative slant.This coveted set of names includes
Folk, YMC, Oliver Spencer and Albam,Chevron Paper Straws all
of which have their own signatures, but belong to the same distinctive
family. There is something pleasingly homespun and comforting about this
lot and their wares: knits could’ve been handcrafted in the Scottish
highlands; shirts are often fashioned from cotton that has considerable
texture and softness.A Folk or YMC jacket might appear simple at first
glance, but look closer and the true character of the garment emerges.
An unmistakable whiff of English eccentricity lingers beneath the
fuss-free cuts; exuberance is confined to quirky detailing, subtle
prints or interesting colour combinations.
“Charles
Eames once said: ‘The details are not the details, they are the
design’,” says Folk’s MD Fraser Shand. “The reason why customers buy our
clothes is probably because they like the effort we put into small
details in the garment – whether that happens to materialise in a
certain fabric choice, a type of button or a topstitch. We’re not
recreating the wheel in terms of style, but adding the bells and
whistles seems to differentiate us.”Designing pieces that strike a
balance between functionality and creativity is not easy, and men aren’t
always receptive to novel ideas – something YMC’s co-owner and design
director Fraser Moss is well aware of. “It’s a fine line, and one that I
have got wrong at times over the years. But since my own style is quite
classic and timeless with enough of a twist, I just have to retain
faith in my own judgement.”
Their
increasing popularity certainly suggests these London labels have
nailed the art of dressing the modern man. But most importantly, they
know how to navigate the choppy waters of the fashion industry and take
the look forward without losing sight of their identities. Far from
being newbies, all four names have been around for some time. Folk was
established in 2001 and initially sold menswear only. It now
incorporates women’s clothing, as well as a growing range of
footwear.Buy High quality Coach Grade Sunglasses,
Custom Fit Stripe Shirt and more. At almost 20 years of age, YMC is the
oldie of the group, and its offer has expanded with time to incorporate
full collections for men and women.Forklift forks Oliver
Spencer, meanwhile, is about to reach the respectable age of 12, and
women have been able to clad themselves in his designs since 2008. Albam
was founded in 2006, and so far caters for men only.The quiet but
subtly humorous allure of this gentle fashion troupe appeals to a
surprisingly sprawling clientele. The discerning Dalston set in East
London have long trotted to Folk and Oliver Spencer to pick up cardigans
and cotton twill trousers cut just so at the ankle, but boardroom
dwellers aren’t entirely immune to their charm. “Our label attracts a
nice mix of customers, which can probably be attributed to our focus on
quality and understated design, which features just enough detail,”
observes Shand. “There is enough detail in the garment to make the cool
kids stand out, and the city boys find that the clothes aren’t too scary
since they don’t scream ‘fashion’.”
The
conscious stepping away from obvious trends resonates strongly with
YMC’s Fraser Moss too. “I tend to design the kind of clothes I’d like to
wear myself,” he says. “I never pick up fashion magazines,Our store can
offer Dsquared Long T-Shirts cheap price,
welcome choose! I don’t study trend forecasts – YMC is about style, not
fashion. And as such it hopefully attracts a lot of likeminded souls.”
Similarly, the ideas that come to Oliver Spencer at the sketching table
mirror his own wardrobe – a style that fuses traditional tailoring and
streetwear influences, resulting in an unmistakably English look with
flashes of Americana and Japanese styling. The duo behind Albam –
Alastair Rae and James Shaw – design clothes intended to slot seamlessly
into any man’s wardrobe. But the craftsmanship that goes into the
construction of each piece,Honeycomb Tissue Ball and the quality of the fabrics and trims, which are mainly sourced in Italy and Britain, give the garments an artisanal feel.
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